“Regeneration instead of replacement.”
That phrase best sums up why polynucleotides are creating such a stir in aesthetic medicine.
From Seoul to London, injectors are increasingly exploring polynucleotides as a next-generation skin booster. But what exactly are they? How do they work? And does the science support the hype? In this article, I’ll dive into the molecular mechanisms, current research, benefits, and limitations – and explore why polynucleotides have become a trending topic in aesthetic dermatology.
What Are Polynucleotides?
At their core, polynucleotides (PNs) are long chains of nucleotides – the basic building blocks of DNA and RNA. In aesthetic medicine, they are typically processed DNA fragments (often derived from fish sources – you may have heard of the ‘salmon sperm facial’) used for skin regeneration rather than volumising.
A specific subclass frequently used is polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which refers to purified DNA fragments applied in regenerative therapies.
Unlike dermal fillers, which primarily add bulk, polynucleotides aim to stimulate fibroblasts, encourage collagen and elastin synthesis, improve microcirculation, and enhance tissue repair.
Why Polynucleotides Are Gaining Popularity
Shift from “Volume” to “Quality”
Patients today are far more interested in improving skin health at a cellular level rather than simply restoring lost volume. Polynucleotides meet this demand perfectly, working as biostimulators to optimise the skin’s natural regeneration processes.
Backed by Emerging Clinical Data
Early studies suggest that polynucleotides may:
- Reduce wrinkles and fine lines
- Improve elasticity and hydration
- Stimulate angiogenesis (blood vessel formation)
- Support soft tissue regeneration
Aesthetic Market Momentum
The global market for polynucleotide injectables is expanding rapidly – particularly across Asia and Europe – with many clinics now offering PN-based protocols. However, faster growth isn’t always a positive sign, as we’ll discuss below.
The Science Inside Polynucleotides
Fibroblast Stimulation & Collagen Remodelling
PN injections activate fibroblasts, boosting collagen and elastin production – essential for maintaining firm, youthful skin.
Angiogenesis & Microcirculation
They encourage the formation of new blood vessels, improving oxygen and nutrient delivery to the skin.
Hydration & Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Support
Polynucleotides attract water molecules and stabilise the extracellular matrix, restoring plumpness and resilience.
Cellular Repair & Antioxidant Effect
Some research suggests that PNs can help reduce oxidative stress and aid tissue repair at the genetic level, supporting overall skin recovery and resilience.
Common Indications & Use Cases
- Early wrinkles and fine lines
- Under-eye skin quality and texture
- Facial rejuvenation (as a skin booster)
- Acne scars and skin damage repair
- Combined protocols with microneedling or PRP
Limitations & Unknowns
- Current research is promising but still limited, with relatively small study sizes.
- There is no standardised dosing or treatment frequency yet.
- Long-term safety data remain under review.
- Allergic reactions are possible, particularly with fish-derived DNA.
- Results are often subtle and typically require multiple sessions.
The Bottom Line
Polynucleotides are attracting attention as a scientifically intriguing, regenerative option in aesthetics. They don’t replace fillers or energy-based devices but instead complement them, targeting skin quality from within. This aligns with the growing trend towards natural, understated rejuvenation.
That said, as the industry rapidly expands – often ahead of formal regulation – new PN brands appear frequently, making it difficult for practitioners to identify reputable, safe formulations. This underlines the importance of choosing a qualified medical practitioner who prioritises safety, evidence, and patient outcomes above all else.
Personally, I’m excited to see how polynucleotides continue to evolve within aesthetic medicine. As more research emerges, I look forward to understanding their full potential in supporting skin health – and how they may further benefit my patients in the years ahead.
If you’d like to explore advanced skin treatments at Fountain of Youth in Salisbury, you can:
📞 +44 7342 243654
✉️ info@aginggracefully.uk
🌐 Book your consultation here
Read more about us here.
FAQs About Polynucleotides
1. What are polynucleotides made from?
They are DNA fragments, often derived from purified fish sources, processed for medical and aesthetic use.
2. How do polynucleotides work in the skin?
They stimulate fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, improve hydration, and support tissue repair.
3. Are polynucleotides the same as fillers?
No. Fillers add volume, while polynucleotides act as biostimulators, focusing on skin quality rather than shape.
4. How long do results last?
Results vary, but improvements in hydration and texture can be seen after a few sessions and may last several months with maintenance.
5. Are there risks with polynucleotides?
As with any injectable, there’s a risk of bruising, swelling, or allergic reaction. Research is still ongoing to establish long-term safety.